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Here are details of the plumbing and drain system of your house. It also explains that how the plumbing fixtures of your house work. Going through How stuff work page of this web site you will also learn how the clogs can occur in the drain system of your house.

 Should you wish to perform your own plumbing maintenance using the information we provide on this website, please be aware that Mr. Rescue cannot be held responsible for any actions not taken by a trained Mr. Rescue's technician. 

House Plumbing

A house actually has several plumbing systems.

Water supply piping brings water to the house and distributes it to fixtures and appliances, including outdoor sprinklers and irrigation.

Drain and waste plumbing disposes of used water and waste.

Vent piping exhausts sewer gasses and provides proper pressure for the drainpipes.

Gas piping delivers gas to gas-fired appliances.

And some homes even have pipe systems that serve specialty needs-swimming pool plumbing and built-in vacuum piping, for example. In this section, we'll explore the various plumbing systems and fixtures of a house.

Most kitchens have a fairly simple plumbing setup that includes hot and cold water supply lines, a waste line for the sink (or sinks) and, for kitchens with a gas range, a gas supply pipe.

Many kitchens also have hookups for dishwasher, disposer, ice maker, water treatment system and/or instant hot water, but these are generally tied-in to the sink's plumbing.

The visible part of the sink's plumbing is nearly always located directly below the sink, inside the sink's base cabinet. A gas range (see below) is generally served by a flexible gas connector, controlled by a gas valve located at the wall or floor beneath the cooktop.

Beneath the sink, you can generally see two small valves: one for the hot water supply, the other for the cold. Turning these valves clockwise stops the flow of water through the flexible supply tubes that route water to the faucet.

 

On the faucet side of the cold-water shutoff valve, there may be other water connections too-sometimes by way of a saddle valve.

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This is generally where connections are made with flexible copper or plastic tubing to serve a water treatment device, ice maker or instant-hot water dispenser.

Shutoff valves serve the hot and cold water supplies to the faucet, though some older houses don't have these. Flexible supply tubes connect the valves to the threaded tailpieces of the faucet. Faucets with a separate or integral sprayer have a sprayer hose that connects onto another tailpiece at the center of the faucet body.

Gas Hookup
Gas supply for a gas range is usually controlled by a shutoff valve beneath the range. A small, flexible supply line delivers the gas to the appliance.

 

 

Kitchen Sink Drain Plumbing

A sink drains by way of several components. The strainer fits into a strainer body that's inserted down through the sink hole and sealed with a bead of plumber's putty.

Underneath are a rubber gasket and metal washer and a large locknut or retainer tightens the body in place. A straight tailpiece mounts to the strainer body with a threaded coupling.

Slip joint couplings connect the tailpiece, the main parts of the trap and a short threaded nipple at a tee in the drainpipe.

At the wall or the back of the cabinet, a trim piece called an escutcheon hides the connector and the nipple. The trap, always filled with water, seals the pipe so sewer gasses won't enter the house.Waste water exits through the trap, down the vented drain pipe to the main stack.

A garbage disposal, if there is one, mounts directly to a special strainer body. The trap then connects to an outlet on the disposal.

Kitchen sinks may have single or multiple bowls in a variety of shapes and sizes. They're mounted in three different ways, depending upon the type: self rimming, flush or under-mounted.

Self rimming sinks have a molded edge that overhangs the countertop. Flush sinks are supported by metal strips around the perimeter or are an integral part of the countertop material. Rimless or under-mount sinks are fastened or fused to the underside of the countertop.

 

Bathroom Sink Plumbing

A sink drain has a flange that is sealed to the sink hole with a bead of plumber's putty. This flange is screwed into the drain body, which is tightened to the underside of the sink bowl with a locknut.

The tailpiece, which may contain a pop-up stopper, attaches to a drain trap with slip-joint couplings.

The sink trap remains filled with water so sewer gasses won't enter; it's connected to a threaded nipple inserted in a T in the drain line. An escutcheon trim hides the connection.

A mechanical pop-up stopper is operated by a system of levers and rods. If this isn't working properly, the solution is usually just a matter of adjusting the clevis screw or the position of the pivot rod.

Kitchen Sinks and Materials

As the central fixture in the most active room of the house, the kitchen sink sees plenty of action. Day in and day out, it is the focal point of food preparation and cleanup. Accordingly, kitchen sinks are made to be both attractive and extremely durable.

And of course, modern sinks no longer consist of a simple faucet and bowl. They have multiple bowls of various sizes and shapes and are designed with integral drainers, cutting boards, soap dispensers, instant hot water dispensers, purified water taps, sprayers and more.

Sinks are made of stainless steel, enameled metal, solid surfacing (countertop-type) materials and quartz composites.

Stainless steel sinks are made in many sizes and several thicknesses, measured by gauge. (The lower the number, the thicker the material.) For durability and resistance to denting, scratching and staining, 18-gauge or thicker is best.

Enamel on cast iron or steel sinks are made in an assortment of colors. They're easy to keep clean but their heavier weight calls for strong countertops. Cast iron is preferred over pressed steel.

Some solid-surface countertop materials may be formed to include rimless, seamless sinks that are a perfect match. Because the color and pattern goes all the way through the material, scratches can be buffed out.

Quartz composite sinks come in a variety of colors and patterns. These are an attractive, stylish alternative to more conventional materials.

 

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Flexible supply tubes carry water from shutoff valves at wall to threaded tailpieces on the faucet base.

 

 

Kitchen and Bathroom Faucets

Though there are hundreds of different styles, colors and shapes of faucets, the working mechanisms of nearly all can be grouped into four main types: cartridge, compression, ball and disc.

These names refer to the parts that actually control the flow of water through a faucet.

Three of these-cartridge, ball and disc faucets-are mixing faucets. They normally have a single handle or control, though cartridge and disc types are also made with two handles. The compression faucet has two controls-one for hot, the other for cold.

Compression faucets have washers or seals that close against a valve seat to restrict water flow through the faucet body when you turn the handle off. The other three types don't use washers for the off-and-on action, though they do have O-rings and neoprene seals to prevent leaking. They're referred to as "washerless."

Because washers and seals wear out with use-resulting in the familiar drip, drip-washerless faucets are generally favored.

See the listing at far right for more about faucet workings. If you have a faucet that leaks or drips, chances are good that the washers, seals or O-rings have become worn and simply need to be replaced. If you do the work, be sure to turn off the water to the faucet first, using the shutoff valves beneath the sink.

A disc faucet, shown at right, utilizes two discs-a movable, upper disc and a fixed lower one. When the movable disc is turned from side to side or lifted and lowered against the lower disc, it regulates the flow of water through inlet and outlet holes.

If this type of faucet leaks, the culprits are usually the inlet and outlet seals or sediment buildup in the inlets. Handle should be in "on" position when repairing a disc faucet to prevent cracking the replacement seals.

 

 

 

 

 

Ball Faucets

This has a single lever that operates a rotating slotted metal ball. The slots in this ball align with hot and cold water inlet seats in the faucet body to regulate the amount of incoming water allowed to reach the mixing spout. Drips with this type of faucet usually indicate faulty or worn inlet seals. Leaks around the spout are generally due to worn or broken O-rings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cartridge Faucets

This has a hollow metal or plastic cartridge insert that seals against the spout or faucet body. Depending upon how a series of holes in the cartridge align with the stem, water is mixed and controlled. Leaks are generally caused by worn or broken O-rings; drips usually mean cartridge needs replacement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Compression Faucet

A compression faucet has two separate handles. When the handle is turned, it raises or lowers the washer or seal at the base of the stem. As this seal opens or closes against the valve seat, it allows or restricts water flow through the faucet. 

How Bathtubs and Showers Work

Bathtubs and showers are fundamentally very simple appliances designed to contain water and a person or two and to drain spent water into the sewer system. Of course from those basics, a world of possibilities has been developed. Bathtubs and showers are made in many different types, sizes, shapes, colors and configurations.

Bathtubs may be either built-in or freestanding. Built-in tubs range from familiar tub/shower combinations to ultra modern, computerized whirlpool tubs that automatically deliver and maintain a given water temperature. Freestanding tubs come in many styles too, from classic claw-footed tubs to elegantly sleek, jetted models.

The best bathtubs are made from enameled cast iron. Though they're incredibly heavy, particularly in large sizes, cast iron tubs have deep, durable finishes. Tubs made from acrylic that's reinforced with fiberglass are also good and, because they're lighter and more easily molded, acrylic tubs tend to come in larger, more intricate styles than cast-iron. Some tubs are also made of fiberglass, but this tends to fade in direct sunlight and scratch a little too easily.

Showers may be built-in or prefabricated. Built-in showers are essentially small rooms with walls of tile, stone or some other waterproof material and a glass door that slides or swings open.

The floor may be a one piece unit made of plastic or some type of solid-surfacing material.

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Or it may be tile or a similar material with a pan that's flashed and hot-mopped using methods similar to those used on a flat roof.

Prefabricated showers, like bathtubs, are made from fiberglass-reinforced acrylic or fiberglass and come in a wide range of colors and styles. Some are made as single, one-piece units that are installed during construction and others are made as modular units consisting of a base and three walls.

Bathtubs are either freestanding or built into a three-wall alcove. Conventional length of a bathtub is 5 feet but they're made up to 7 feet long. A wide range of widths and depths is available.

Showers may be installed as a single unit, a modular set or custom built-in. It's critical that the shower pan at the base doesn't leak over time-this would rot the floor-so some type of waterproofing system is employed during construction.

Bathtubs and Shower Drains
A shower drain is made of several parts. Beneath the removable strainer cover in the shower floor, the drain leads to an under-floor trap that connects to a drain line and the waste/vent stack.

Tub drains have two legs, one to the main drain opening and the other to the overflow drain opening. To close and open the drain, two different assemblies are common: pop-up and plunger-type.

Both are operated by a trip lever at the overflow drain. With a pop-up drain, linkage forces the drain stopper up or down by way of a rocker arm. With the plunger-type, a hollow brass plunger slides up and down inside the drain assembly to seal the drain opening.The simple but ingenious mechanics of the toilet have changed very little since the earliest "water closet" was invented by Thomas Crapper in the nineteenth century. The toilet, though not one of the more glamourous of home fixtures, is designed to do a very specific job-to carry away waste and prevent sewer gasses from entering the house. And unless something goes wrong with a toilet, it handles its role adroitly.

Opening the back lid, it's easy to be intimidated by all of those strange-looking parts. But a toilet actually operates quite simply.

As shown in the drawing, a toilet has two main parts made from vitreous china: a tank and a bowl. Some toilets are cast as a single piece; others are made in two separate parts that are joined together.

When a toilet is ready for use, both tank and bowl are partly filled with water. Passages between the bowl and the closet bend (the top of the waste pipe) form a trap that remains filled with water at all times, blocking the rise of sewer gasses.

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When you flush the trip lever, it lifts a stopper between the tank and bowl, called a flush valve, letting the water in the tank flow into the bowl. The pressure of the cascading water forces the bowl's water and waste down the waste pipe. The water flowing into the bowl also cleans the bowl. The bowl's water is replenished by water entering from the tank through a refill tube.

As the tank of a conventional toilet empties, a float ball drops, activating the ballcock (simply a water valve), which releases water into the tank. Some new ballcocks operate on water pressure-they don't have a float ball. The water is delivered to the ballcock through a supply tube that's connected to a valve at the wall or floor. When turned clockwise, this valve will shut off the flow of water to the tank.

To prevent overflow and flooding, the top of the overflow tube is open and acts as a drain if the tank's water level rises too high.

Older toilets use 5 to 7 gallons of water to complete the flushing action, wasting a lot of water. All new toilets are made to use a maximum of 1.6 gallons or less per flush.

A minimum-flush mechanism seals the flush valve seat when the tank is still partially full, keeping full pressure on the flush but using less water.

A pressure-activated ballcock is activated by a drop in the tank's water pressure. This type, easily adjusted to deliver various amounts of water to the tank, eliminates the need for a float.

The cut-away view shown at top shows relationship of tank to bowl and how the toilet's base forms a trap to block sewer gasses. Flush handle raises trip lever, raising the flush valve or seat ball from the flush valve seat, letting water rush into the bowl. Stop valve at the wall delivers water through a supply tube to the ballcock. When the float ball drops, the ballcock opens, filling the tank until the ball floats back to its upper position. Overflow tube sends excess tank water to bowl. Refill tube replenishes water in tank through the overflow tube.

A pressurized cylinder inside the toilet tank cuts water usage by putting a small amount of flush water under pressure-either from compressed air or from the house supply line's water pressure.

The conventional float-ball, lift wire and tank ball mechanism has been the standard flushing device for many years.

 

 

 

Fundamentally, a water heater is an appliance that converts energy to heat and transfers that warmth to water.

It's connected to a cold water supply pipe and has an outgoing hot water pipe-or system of pipes-that supplies heated water to one or more taps and appliances. A conventional water heater stores heated water in a cylindrical tank. The less-common tankless water heater doesn't store water-it routes heated water straight to taps or appliances.

The majority of water heaters are fueled by natural gas, though propane and electric water heaters are not unusual. Where natural gas is available, it is a much less expensive heat source than electricity.

Small "instant hot-water dispensers" are simply miniature electric water heaters that serve only one faucet. They have a small, under-sink tank that heats and holds nearly-boiling (about 190-degree) water and delivers it under low pressure through a separate sink-top spout.

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A conventional gas-fueled water heater warms water with a burner beneath the tank. Natural gas (or propane or kerosene, in some cases) is piped to a gas valve. A thermostat detects the temperature of water in the tank regulates fuel delivery to the burner, which is ignited by a pilot light or spark ignition. A vent collects toxic emissions from the burner and pipes them up through the tank, out the top and normally up through the roof. Some newer, high-efficiency water heaters have fan-assisted vents that can be piped out through a wall.

A heavy electrical cable delivers energy to heating elements in an electric water heater. Electric water heater doesn't create combustion gasses, so no vent is required. They typically have one 5500-watt or, for faster heating, two 4500-watt elements. Separate thermostats control each element, cycling on as needed.

A tankless water heater circulates water through a series of burners or electric coils when you turn on a hot water faucet or appliance. Because the water heater doesn't store hot water, it costs less to operate and doesn't run out of hot water unless the flow exceeds its heating ability. Capacity is measured by how many degrees it increases water temperature at a given flow rate, typically expressed in gallons per minute (gpm).

Because the tank is under pressure, hot water exits through the hot water outlet at the top of the tank. When hot water leaves, cold water enters through a diffuser dip tube that extends down inside the tank. The cold water pipe normally has a shutoff valve. A magnesium or aluminum anode rod utilizes the principle of ionization to minimize corrosive elements in the water that shorten tank life. The larger the anode, the longer a tank is likely to last.

The drain valve at the water heater's base is used for draining the tank or flushing sediment. This important maintenance should occur one or twice a year, according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

A temperature and pressure relief (T & P) valve near (or on) the top of the tank opens automatically if temperature or pressure exceed safe levels. This should be tested periodically, according to manufacturer's directions.

Plumbing systems are composed of pipes and fittings. Metal or plastic pipes are joined by a variety of fittings designed to couple lengths in a straight line, turn corners, branch in two directions, reduce or enlarge pipe size or connect to some type of fixture.

Pipes are made from several different metals and plastics. You can often identify a pipe's purpose by its size and makeup: indoor water supplies generally are copper or galvanized iron pipe in diameters of 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch or 1 inch; some water supplies in these diameters are made of plastic pipe. Gas piping also this size, but is usually made of black (uncoated) or galvanized iron pipe.

Smaller-diameter, flexible copper or plastic tubing is used for water supplies that feed ice makers, hot-water dispensers, water filters and the like. Fittings may be brass or plastic. You'll also find flexible (sometimes ribbed) pipes serving from a small wall valve to toilets and faucets and flexible piping rated for delivering gas from valves to water heaters, dryers and other gas appliances.

Larger-diameter pipes, from 1 1/2 inches to 4 inches, handle drain, waste and vent (DWV) piping. A 4-inch or larger plastic or cast-iron pipe usually serves the main soil stack, the waste and vent line that serves toilets and other bathroom fixtures. Pipes that are 1 1/2 inches and larger in diameter generally serve other waste and vent lines; light-gauge plastic pipe from 1 1/4-inch to 1 1/2-inch diameter is sometimes used for built-in vacuum cleaning systems.

 

Plastic pipe is used in many plumbing applications because it's relatively inexpensive, easy to install and impervious to corrosion. In some locations, plastic pipe is not allowed by codes for supply piping.

Rigid pipe may be PVC (polyvinyl chloride) for cold water or DWV plumbing, CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) for hot and cold water and ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) for DWV piping. Flexible plastic tubing is made from PB (polybutylene) and PE (polyethylene). Plastic pipe is rated for the pressure it can handle; this rating is stamped on the outside of the pipe.

Rigid copper pipe is widely preferred for water supply piping. It's sturdy and durable, resists mineral buildup and can handle both cold and hot water. Hard supply pipe is sold in three thicknesses: M (thin wall), L (medium wall) and K (thick wall). Most above-ground plumbing is Type M.

Soft copper supply pipe is more expensive than hard copper pipe but is flexible enough to be routed without as many fittings. Type L (medium wall) is more commonly used than Type M (thick wall) forabove-ground applications.

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Copper pipe may be joined with permanently soldered fittings or flare/compression fittings that can be disassembled.

Galvanized iron pipe and fittings were standard for water supply plumbing before 1960 and are still common. The galvanized zinc coating on the outside of this pipe resists rust and corrosion but insides of pipes clog up with mineral deposits and corrode over time. Water-tight connections are made with threaded fittings. Larger-diameter galvanized iron pipe is used for vent plumbing in some houses.

To prevent corrosion from electrolysis that occurs when two dissimilar metals are joined together, a dielectric union should be used anywhere copper is connected to an iron pipe.

Cast iron pipe is a strong, durable material used for drain, waste and vent (DWV) plumbing. Two types are common: the older "hub" or "bell-and-spigot" type that is joined together with lead and oakum and newer "no-hub" or "hubless" fittings that are connected with special rubber gaskets and stainless steel band clamps.

Drain, Waste, and Vent Plumbing Systems

The system of large-diameter pipes that carries water and wastes to the sewer line or septic tank is called the drain, waste, vent or DWV system. As its name implies, this system has three important components.

Drain lines collect water from sinks, showers and tubs; waste lines carry wastes from toilets; and vent lines exhaust sewer gasses and provide the necessary air pressure to allow wastes to flow freely.

All drain and waste lines slope slightly downward from the fixture toward the sewer or septic system. Water and wastes are carried by simple gravity.

The pipes are large in diameter-typically 1 1/4 inches to 4 inches-to minimize the possibility of blockages.

The main soil stack for toilets is normally a 4-inch pipe; showers usually have 2-inch pipe drains. Sinks, lavatories, bathtubs and laundry tubs may be served by 1 1/4-inch to 2-inch pipes.

Though older homes may have pipes made of lead, most drain piping is cast iron, plastic or-in some houses-copper. Some vent pipes are galvanized iron.

To operate properly and safely, each drain must be served by a vent line that carries sewer gasses out through the roof.

Several vents may be connected together and joined to the soil stack as long as there is no drain above the connection point. Or vents may pass through the roof on their own.

All waste lines should have cleanouts at easily-accessible locations. A cleanout is simply a Y-shaped fitting in the line that is capped off. If a blockage occurs, this is the easiest place for a plumber to snake out the line.

Sink Traps

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To prevent sewer gasses and odors from entering the house, drains are protected by traps. A trap is a curved section of drain pipe that fills up with water, providing a seal.

Drains that penetrate a wall have a P trap and those that go through the floor have an S trap. The water held by the trap is replaced each time the fixture is used.

To prevent sewer gasses and odors from entering the house, drains are protected by traps. A trap is a curved section of drain pipe that fills up with water, providing a seal.

Drains that penetrate a wall have a P trap and those that go through the floor have an S trap. The water held by the trap is replaced each time the fixture is used.

Water Supply and Service

Water travels under pressure through a system of pipes to your home.

Here you can trace the route of municipal water from the street to your house; for information on how it's delivered to various fixtures and appliances within your house.

The water company uses a water meter to measure how much water you use (unless your water use isn't tracked). This meter is often buried in a housing with a removable lid, located in front of the house, near the street. In cold-winter areas, it may be inside the basement or crawl space-often placed where the meter reader can check it monthly without disturbing you. The water company delivers water to the meter through a large pipe called a main, which often parallels the street.

The water meter measures the amount of water that flows to your house.

Dials or a digital readout on the meter record how many cubic feet of water travel through the meter. The company meter reader records the numbers each month and the company computes the difference between last month's and this month's readings to figure your bill. Reading a digital meter is easy-just like reading a car's odometer. To read a dial-type meter, record the smallest of the two numbers near the tip of each needle.

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A main shutoff valve is often located on each side of the water meter. The one on the street side is the water company's valve-the one used to shut off the system when they want to work on or change your meter. The other one controls water that flows to your house. This is your main shutoff; turning it completely clockwise will stop all water flowing through your water supply system-both indoors and outdoors.

A gate valve, used as main shutoff valve, is designed to be used either completely open or closed. As you open the valve, a tapered wedge retracts from the water channel into valve's body, allowing water to flow. When closed, the wedge creates a seal. Other valves control the flow of water through parts of your supply system. A valve near the house may shut off all water indoors; another may control all garden water.